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Tech Tips Column
4.6L For those with 4.6L; we've encountered the extreme difficulty of replacing the starter. Purchase 2 Sears Craftsman ratcheting full polished 10mm wrenches (#42569-GK-Z- in the $30 neighborhood total!). Don't purchase their GEARWRENCH 10mm as it's head is too large for what you are doing. You may upgrade to one reversible 10mm ($20 neighborhood) if you wish, but you'll have to add some kind of length to the handle. Now, cut off both open ends, weld the 2 together (making sure they will ratchet opposite). Heat to low red and bend five equally spaced 36 degree curves so as to achieve the following. Allow to cool on it's own; yet while protecting ratchets with either water or cold air spray. A one piece dual ratcheting wrench curved 180 degrees w/approx. 3.5" throat & 7" or less center to center box ratchets. On the Crown Vic at least it seems advantageous to temporarily remove the lower 45 degree chassis brace. Hope this helps & here's a pic of this wrench. And as always we'll build one for a price.  Racing SBF 221-400 1962-1995 *Drill four 3/8" holes in the corners of the block valley to maximize oil return. Slightly chamfer these hole tops as well as the factory ones. *Chamfer slightly block oil feed holes at the crank. A small slot cut in center of this hole (3/8"long, 1/16"w, 1/16"d parallel to direction of rotaton) can add even more bearing oil. *Carefully study and drill .035" hole in cam plate utilizing gallery feed so as to have a spray on chain. Lose the slinger. *align hone the crank bore *studs rather than bolts *Suggest good stock oil pump for street; Hi-Volume pump and gallery restricters for track only. *Stock heads: blend first 1/2" under the valve into the pocket & the first 3/4" in from the port as to match gasket opening. *TRW valves 1.9i #V2609/1.6e #S2608 *small diameter Perfect Circle teflon valve stem seals *Autolite BF32 spark plugs; EFI- Motorcraft ASF-42C *Fel-Pro 9330-PT1 head gaskets, 221-302 head bolt torque - 70'/#s lower & 80'/#s upper, 351W-400 - 105'/#s lower & 115'/#s upper. *rocker arm stud- 35'/#s *For 351W 3/8" connecting rod bolts - 45'/#s *Intake bolt torque - 25'/#s *Cloyes timing chain set; 4deg. cam adv/8deg. crank ret- low RPM grunt, TDC 0deg.- standard setting, 4deg. cam ret/8deg. crank adv- top end charge *3/8" hardened pushrods *Fram HP1 or Ford Racing JFL1A oil filter *main bearing clearance- .002" *rod bearing- .0025" *rod side play- .013" *piston to bore- .006" *piston pin- .0008" *the top ring should ride up to within .200"-.240" of deck and/or piston to deck height- .015" *top ring gap- .012" *scraper gap- .014" *oil rails gap- .030 *piston ring to groove- .001" *piston to valve- .100" max (use clay method) *crankshaft end play- .004"-.008" *seek high rod ratio- 3 to 1 max., for 302- try 3.00 crank and 6.50 rod (2.1 to 1ratio) *drive water pump at 70% of crankspeed *keep valves and springs as light as possible *25 PSI radiator cap *Suggested; 26" header primary length, collect it here and (if possible your balance, X or single exhaust should begin here!) *Go to 1 3/4" primaries, 2 1/2"(duals) or 3"(single) for 325+HP flywheel and 1 7/8" primaries, 3"(duals) or 3 1/2"(single) for 500+HP flywheel *exhaust exit of vehicle located at the lowest atmosphere area known (most likely found at center of rear bumper, so as close to this as possible)(Street use - obey local laws)
Chassis Tips *Very High Speed suggested specs- 1/2 deg. NEG camber, 3-5 deg. POS caster & 1/32" toe in (all links & bearings to be without slop)(Streetable) *Road Course suggested specs- 2 1/2 deg. NEG camber, 3-5 deg. POS caster & 1/16" toe in (all links & bearings to be without slop) (Streetable but w/inner tread wearing sooner) *Factory strut cars lowbuck cornering improvement w/front top strut nuts loosened, drill out rivets, move all the way inward to last setting, rerivet and retighten nuts. *Follow manufacturer's tire specs while increasing F to max. & R to (32PSI Road Racing),(go lower in R for Drag Racing) (In high summer heat keep a watch with tire guage) *Tire upgrades for traction are right up there with horsepower, torque, chassis and brake improvements. (Rules permitting!) *A front spoiler, splitter, dam and/or lowering will do more for your ride than other aero changes. *Wings look cool but add very much drag to your areo package, so go with a spoiler, whale or some such attached teardrop tail to accomplish your rear downforce needs. *Some remove wipers (good day) to help aero. Some actually remove antenna. *Wholesale changes do way more than an excellant wax job.(Nothing wrong with that though)! *Side windows up to help aero, vent on high for warm weather. (Trucks with slider rear window open & this also helps fill that nasty bed vacuum which so hurts the CD.) *Some truck owners remove the tailgate for aero but (I've heard it argued both ways), test to decide for yourself! *Exit your exhaust at the lowest atmosphere of your vehicle.(probably center of your rear bumper, or as close as you can get it)(Obey local laws on the street) *Fabricate a diffuser for your rear valence area (helps remove underbody air)(Look at the Ford GT)(Round or stylized holes in the rear valence can be the lowbuck alternative) Excellent Tech Links:
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